Mark Amery interviews artist Rowan Panther: making lace from muka

In the far north, in Doubtless Bay, Te Tai Tokerau, Rowan Panther makes lace with fine strands of muka from the Harakeke flax bushes on her property. 

Bobbin lace to be precise, which is traditionally made with cotton. Panther’s material and the forms she makes with lace reflect the Pacific environment she lives in; taking a tradition forward. 

“My work developed as a search into my own cultural identity,” she has commented, “Or, really to fill a gap where my culture was supposed to be.”

Rowan is showing alongside fellow adornment maker Neke Moa at Pātaka in Porirua in the exhibition Rangirua.

Listen to Mark Amery interviewing Rowan Panther on RNZ HERE.

Panther has found a way to connect with her mixed ancestry in this place. As someone of Irish, English, Prussian and Samoan heritage she brings contemporary Pacific interpretations in jewellery to traditional European lace making. Her works are often worn around the neck, referring to objects like Pacific breastplates with shell, or ceremonial collars.

The recipient of the prestigious 2025 McCahon House Artists Residency in Waitākere, Panther’s muka lace work has been exhibited in Australia, the UK and Europe. Pieces have even been purchased by the British Museum. She was also recently selected to show this year at Schmuck, a prestigious jewellery exhibition held annually in Munich, Germany.

Born in Tāmaki Makaurau Auckland, Rowan completed a Diploma in Contemporary Photography from Unitec and then a Bachelor of Fine Arts at Elam School of Fine Arts.

Growing up, she says, she was inspired by the displays at Auckland Museum Tāmaki Paenga Hira, where her work is now held and she is currently a Research Associate.

Panther has also worked for many years in costume for films.

This has included the recent live action version of Moana, The Lord of the Rings: Rings of Power television series and Time Bandits.

This year though she has started devoting her full energy to her work, relishing having the time to be fully present in her craft.

Rangirua featuring Rowan Panther is at Pātaka until 9 March 2025.